In an uncertain world, Dane Reynolds.
To him the surf world turns a lonely eye for premium performance inspo for the bigger gentleman surfer, formerly via his Marine Layer blog, now the brilliant Chapter 11.tv
Not just for the more robust of rump, the dad bod, the north of 33-years-old, but perhaps those with anxiety issues, too. In Reynolds we trust to turn that potentially debilitating package into wicked, compelling performances in head-ish high pockets. The type of surf available to most folk, most places.
His output continues to cut right through the hum drum, not only surfing-wise, but in terms of vibe, too.
His recent, moving tribute to brother Brek was beautifully done.
Once a global trend setter, his own trunk ‘colorway’ instantly becoming essential attire, the way he drew his logos instant de rigeur, lovingly imitated groms the world over, and Jordy Smith, Dane continues to look great in the style notes of his heyday, like Chris Packham’s punk era spike and bleach.
Surfing’s latest must-have is the mid-length board. Apparently invented by Dane’s own board sponsor CI, circa 2018. They existed long before that of course, loosely referred to as an ‘egg’, or in more commercial jingo, the ‘one board quiver’, particularly championed online retailer Mollusk.
Dane’s latest 8 min Chapter 11 film comes with the following self deprecating, mid length marauding credo:
“Some day I’ll have to hang it up. Stop forcing my fossilized body to pump and thrash and relax into a more soulful manner of riding waves. Maybe buy an old van and burn some sage. Get resin tints and grow a pony tail and wrap it in a bun. Switch to craft beer. Hang up the thruster and glide in from out the back on a 7’6 single fin. I’ll put my arms in the air when I reach the crest of every gently peeling wave.”
“And for the record. If you ever see me on a set at Rincon throwing my arms in the air on a 7’6 single fin feel free to burn me…”