In a brand new clip Aussie hellman Kerby Brown tells the story of one particular fateful day at The Right, WA- surely one of the heaviest waves on earth.
“We made the mutual decision to come and live on the south and try this lifestyle” Kerby explains of him and his families recent move to the southern tip of WA “[I can] hunt the slab waves in the back yard, surf them all the time, which is a good thing but kind of detrimental to your health” he continues “[It’s] death defying every time you go for a surf, you’re risking your personal safety I guess, your body and sometimes, your life.”
In this vein Kerby goes on to recount one session at The Right where he took a nasty tumble fairly early on in the surf, and came up with blood coming out of his ear and knew straight away that he’d perforated ear drum. Unperturbed Kerby decided to grab a few more waves, however eventually the session served up beating sufficiently gnarly to send Kerby packing, and put him out of the water for several weeks:
