The surf world has been perpetually mesmerised ever since the first clip of Kelly’s wave pool first graced our screens.
Minds have been continually boggling at its razor edge perfection and seamless emulation of the very best of the natural world’s aquatic treasures. However when quizzed on the exact mechanics that allow for such a picture perfect peeler, the best most can muster is a muttered response about bottom contours. Beyond that the specifics of the wave’s scientific underpinnings have largely remained a mystery, until now.
Late last year the subject was tackled by The Science Channel who revealed how, through careful collaboration between the GOAT and a fluid mechanics specialist, the wave came into being.
There’s an article on their website which explains everything from the hydrofoil that drives the wave to the specifics of the bottom contour in blistering detail, which you can read here, or, for those less in to the written word, simply hit play below and learn yourself some science: