Cover shot: Luke Gartside.
Oh France. The land of Europe’s largest sand dune, fine dining, a hub of bustling surf and outdoor culture, plus, there’s some of the most heart-in-mouth beachbreaks you can ever surf anywhere on the planet.
It is the home of throttling barrels, and part of the right of passage for a lot of teens growing up along the western side of Europe’s wave-soaked Atlantic flank.
A word of caution though, waves in France’s south west are at the mercy of the sand. Where it’s piled up, or not, will help sculpt those waves into their classic best. Spots like La Graviere have suffered under the lack of sand across the past few years, meaning that once hallowed surf ground can be less victory at sea and more frustrating head-clips from a throwing lip.
It has its moments, like every surf spot across the globe, but the consistency and pure wow-factor have been diminished since the sand went walkabout. The bathymetry is all over the shop — just for now, anyway. When it aligns, France is one of the best country’s in Europe to be a surfer, or for the travelling surfer. Make a base in Hossegor and branch out.
Where’s The Best Surf In France?
Easy, head to the south west of the country and roll up in to Hossegor. It’s a great place to stay for your trip and you are within driving distance of its southern log-friendly cousin, Biarritz. You can also skirt around the coast in to the north coast of Spain, sample pintxos in San Sebastian before heading off to Mundaka. What makes it so good? Many things. Openness to the Atlantic being one, a largely uninterrupted swell path allows waves to make a bee-line into France’s western coast, meaning those shores can maximise potential from the slightest whiff of waves. There’s also the Capbreton gulf, a gigantic underwater canyon jutting westwards out to sea. This deep-water expanse refracts swells towards Hossegor, helping to create powerful waves in this surf zone. This gulf was formed when two tectonic plates split apart around 20 million years ago.
As for wetsuits, you will be just fine across the swell season in either a 3/2mm or a 4/3mm. Here’s a couple options for you and go here for way more.
A 3/2mm Vissla 7 Seas will be fab for the swell season’s French waters.
Click the image to shop this suit, perfect for France.
How To Get There?
There are multiple ways to reach the sud ouest, but the Plymouth to Roscoff ferry is a great option, if you fancy the road trip through France. Another ferry route is Plymouth to Santander, a 20-hour marathon and then drive the three hours east along the Basque coast and up to Hossegor. Alternatively, if the maritime route feels a bit icky, you can fly to Bordeaux and drive down, or fly into Biarritz and head north to Hossegor — which is the most direct route, if road trips are not your thing.
Where to Surf?
La Graviere
The creme-de-la-creme of world-class beachbreaks. An expert’s only wave that is as likely to guillotine you than let you scoot out the doggy-door. Look for a W swell with E to NE wind to get the place cranking. This is a surf spot that will take no prisoners. Get prepared to burn your shoulders out paddling once the size starts cranking.
La Estagnots
Not so well known as La Graviere but Estagnots has built a reputation on producing consistent, quality waves. Just avoid the spot at high tide, it’ll make mincemeat out of your favourite boards. Head a touch further north, where it can handle a bit more size along France’s western flank.
Lafitania
The best right hand point break in the country. A bold claim? Maybe, but Lafitania is a brilliant wave, if you can avoid the high-crowd factor. Lafitania is popular for a reason, the top of the peak is akin to Anchor Point in Morocco, a sometimes soft roll in, into a sectiony, racey, down the line top-to-bottom blast. As popular with the shortboard crew as it is the longboarders. When the weather has turned its sledgehammer to the coastline, this is a solid option to get out of its way.
France under a low light is an absolutely wonderful experience. Photo: Gartside.
Biarritz
Widely considered the birthplace of European surfing, Biarritz is a surf town steeped in culture heritage. The town offers a variety of spots, including the Cote de Basques, a gentle, loggable wave that personifies mellow. Grande Plage, capped with its iconic lighthouse at the beach’s northern end, offers a steeper wave and good quality, even when the rest of the coast is too big. As with most of France’s south west, look for a W swell to filter into this coastline to really set it off. Be wary of the afternoon wind, early mornings are best for favourable conditions.
Shop the finest surf accessories, by going here.
When To Go
September through March are your best bets. The northern hemisphere wakes from a dreary summer nap and starts to feel autumnal. This is when the Atlantic can start burping up swells, which rifle across the northern half of the ocean and fan swell into the Bay of Biscay. It’s a remarkable time of year and one that most surfers across the left side of Europe wait for.
Down Time
Head into Hossegor to scout out any number of the surf shops across town. Night-time, slink over to Le Surfing in Seignosse, where just about everyone hangs out. Straight from a classical beachbreak session into one of the best bars around.
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