Photography by: Helio Antonio and Goncalo Placido
Nestled in the heart of Portugal’s wave-rich western coastline is the charming surf town of Ericeira. This vibrant locale has dazzled tourists for generations with its stunning scenery, thriving community and impressive cluster of world-class surf spots.
Only a 30-minute drive from the capital city Lisbon, Ericeira is far enough out to escape the hustle of contemporary, urban living, while still allowing for day trips into the city if desired. Free from the chaos of the city, Ericeira has an authentic Portuguese feel, its quaint streets running along one of the most wave-rich coastlines in the whole of Europe.
But there’s so much more about the town than surfing – though Ericeira being a World Surfing Reserve should be enough to dangle that carrot. The people, place and feel are so different than anywhere else in the world, creating a sense of paradisiacal living within the charming alleyways and beaches.
You can explore this surfing paradise from O House, with one spot located just out of town, equal distance from almost all of the best surf breaks and downtown Ericiera. This small, cosy guesthouse’s tagline is “wake up with a grateful heart,” which is exactly how we feel after a few days in Ericiera.
Yeah, Ericeira is epic for waves. Photo: Helio Antonio.
The Town
Ericeira embodies all of the best qualities of a world-class surf town. A laid-back, surf-focussed drive cuts through the terracotta-roofed houses – long known as the capital of European surfing.
The stars of this location are world-class surf breaks that challenge all levels of ability throughout the year. Spectacular natural beauty, protected by the World Surfing Reserve designation, is woven through the town in all directions, focusing visitors on wellness, nature, and presence.
The picturesque village dates back to the 1200s, retaining an old-world charm while embracing a wide range of shops, restaurants, and bars. The cobblestone streets are packed with quaint boutiques and some of the best food around. Try Indigo, a beachside restaurant with wild sunset views over the Atlantic. Or Praia do Sul’s Balagan Mediterranean restaurant for fresh, delicious food and cocktails.
For some proper food, head to Costa Fria, perched on the cliff right in town overlooking Fisherman’s Cove. If you’re a coffee fan, there are some independent cafes to fuel you up for or after a surf.
Walk around town and there is plenty to remind you where you are. Photo: Helio Antonio.
Check out Capsule for their specialty roasts. Hang out at Black Magic, located in surf shop, Magic Quiver. Enjoy great pastries and espressos at Tiger & Chick. Be a part of the local surf culture at Hurley Surf Club.
There’s lots to do outside of surfing too. There are multiple, cliff-side trails. Lots of mountain biking and rock climbing are also on the menu and if the weather is not cooperating, there’s an indoor climbing gym in town. Join a beach volleyball game or link up with the Ericeira Running Group to meet like-minded folks and get some exercise.
Wellness is core to Ericeira’s identity, with a plethora of classes in yoga, meditation, sound baths, and more. Finally, perch yourself at one of several beachside bars or find a secluded spot on a cliff to enjoy the spectacular sunset that the town celebrates every day.
There is a blending of the local and global population of people that share a love for nature, waves, community, and connection. People in Ericeira like to talk about three watchwords: respect, preserve, and enjoy. It’s a place where you can feel welcome and everyone belongs.
Of course, if you feel the need to explore a bit further, the town is well-placed along the west coast of Portugal, enabling you to venture out to places like Peniche and Nazare, just about an hour away.
The Waves
If there’s one surf zone in Europe to visit, it’s Ericeira. Designated a World Surfing Reserve in 2011, Ericeira has a larger number of world-class surf zones per capita than any other country in the Old Continent. And there’s a whole load of different set-ups to cater for any level of surfers–beginner right through to the hellcats who like their waves with some added spice. Luckily, they’re all a short drive from O House, so let’s break them down.
Coxos: Quite possibly, Portugal’s greatest wave. A right-hand, reef pointbreak that can throttle down the coast when the swell is maxing. One of those waves where you need to get your head down and paddle the hardest you’ve ever had to, just to make the drop, scoop up and under, set your rail and hang on. A technical wave for the more advanced surfers out there – if you don’t end up on the reef, you’ll likely get the best barrel of your life. Period. Distance from O House: 10-minute drive.
There’s a reason why this coastline is protected… Photo: Helio Antonio.
Ribeira D’Ilhas: A special wave that once hosted a WSL Championship Tour event, given its world-class nature. On a north-westerly swell, expect those right-hand walls to reel off in front of the beach’s iconic cliffs. Ribeira D’Ilhas can begin working from anywhere knee high to up, well overheard. It can be a fairly easy paddle out, just scoot around the corner of the wave and never through the line-up of this sand-covered reef. Expect it to be a bit busy, but spread out. Well worth the time. Distance from O House: 10-minute drive.
Praia de Sao Juliao: Towards the southern end of the Ericeira area, is Praia de Sao Juliao, which is somewhat of a swell magnet in the local area. On the smaller days, this stunning beach is very suitable for beginner surfers, with waves split across various points of this beachbreak. At size, you may want to leave it to the more experienced surfers as rips can pull surfers across the zone. Distance from O House: 12-minute drive.
The Venue
O-House, in Ericeira, is a prime place to base your stay.
Amidst energetic days packed with world-class surfing and charming cafe crawls, you’ll need a place to recharge and regroup. O House, situated in the tranquil hills above Ericeira’s coastline, provides a quiet oasis of relaxation.
This boutique hotel and retreat centre hosts several laid-back retreats, aiming to connect visitors to the heart and soul of Ericeira. With nine suites and several common spaces, including a pool, O House is the perfect size for groups and retreats. At an O House retreat, you won’t just be visiting, you’ll become a part of the place, learning from local legends, such as Pedro Severino and Miguel Portela Uricchio as you tackle Ericeira’s famous waves.
See you there. Cosy beach-vibes in a venue made for exploration.
O House’s central location gives easy access to Ericeira’s beaches, making it the ideal home base for surfers. Start your morning with a rejuvenating yoga class in a eucalyptus grove, chow down on a hearty breakfast, and then hit the beach, surfboard in hand. Trade surf stories with local instructors and make new ones in the salty spray of the Atlantic.
At night, sip wine around a bonfire or take a refreshing dip in the pool as the sun sets over the hills. Retire to your room for a refreshing night of sleep, then wake up ready for a new day of exploration, appreciation, and new experiences.
The People
Cliff and team, sunset, after a day taking it all in.
Alongside the stunning coastlines and bustling village are the people of Ericeira. At an O House retreat, two of the first people you may meet are Lisa and Cliff Sharples, the owners of O House and lovers of all things travel, food and community. They have been together for more than 30 years and are lifelong entrepreneurs. Their joint decision to invest in Portugal and create O House is the latest chapter in a life defined by creativity, adventure, mentorship, and a desire to cultivate spaces where others can grow, connect, and thrive.
“We found Ericeira the year after The Reserve was established while traveling around the world for a year with our 5 kids,” said Cliff. “My two oldest boys spent a summer here just 3 years ago and urged Lisa and me to look for property here. We knew immediately that it was a special place where we could develop our vision for a welcoming home away from home for people from around the world.”
They live by the O House motto–wake up with a grateful heart–and cannot wait to share their love and appreciation for Ericeira with others.
Pedro Severino is an Ericeira local who lives and breathes surfing. The founder of Waves and Lines Surf School, Pedro takes a unique approach to surf lessons. He walks his students through Ericeira’s breaks as locals, sharing insider tips and stories. His care and passion for the natural paradise that is Ericeira show in his classes, and he strives to help visitors deeply connect with the sea and swells.
Pedro will be hosting O House’s October surf retreat: Insiders’ Surf, Culture, and Connection Retreat.
Yoga, post-surf, is a good way to stretch out.
Miguel Portela Uricchio is another local, with deep roots in Ericeira. Part of the famous Semente family–founders of Semente surfboards–Miguel has been surfing for 20 years and teaching for 10.
“Semente, as the name suggests, has been planted long ago, and we want it to grow,” says Miguel. “There are waves for all levels of surfing – from those who have never tried it to competitive surfers who train and live here.”
In November, Miguel will take the lead on another O House retreat–Legacy Lineup: Surf Ericeira with the Semente Family. Not only will you catch waves, you will also get a behind-the-scenes look at the Semente surfboard factory, getting an in-depth look at what it takes to bring a board to life.
Another local you may meet at an O House’s retreat is Mayara Antunes, an experienced yoga, sound bath, and meditation instructor. She set up her own yoga practice in Ericeira in 2021 and has fallen in love with Ericeira’s laid-back vibes.
“If you’re looking for a place to relax, enjoy nature, and spend time at beautiful beaches with crystal-clear water, stunning landscapes, and lots of sunshine, Ericeira is the place for you,” she said.
Over the course of her time in Ericeira, she has seen the yoga community grow, intertwining with the booming surf community to create a well-rounded ambiance of wellness and activity that forms the lifeblood of the town. When in Ericeira, you will want to tap into this community as well, refreshing your body and mind with the help of the many experienced yoga instructors and passionate yogis.
See you there. Photo: Helio Antonio.
The Down-Time
For the surfer, there’s the obvious – get out there and chase the perfect wave. But if you’re itching for something different, whether it be something restful or a new type of thrill, Ericeira is bursting with opportunities and experiences. It’s also a place that invites you to be present and practice gratitude.
Stretch out and find your zen with a yoga class or guided meditation. Explore Ericeira’s coasts, featuring miles and miles of hiking trails along the rugged beachside bluffs. These trails are also great for scouting out future surf spots, as they provide a birds-eye view of some of Ericeira’s most popular breaks.
Although Ericeira offers enough activities to fill weeks and then some, you may find yourself wanting to explore another part of Portugal. Using Ericeira as your jumping-off point, there are several iconic spots that make for a perfect day trip, such as the forested fantasy land of Sintra, Nazaré, the epicenter of big wave surfing, or Óbidos, a village encircled by a medieval wall and castle.
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O House is a safe bet for a Portugal retreat, this includes surfing, exploring or just a base to call home for any bit of time. To book in, visit the O House website here.
