Is anyone else currently enduring one of those stints where surfing starts to feel less like a joyous pursuit and more like an act of self-flagellation?
You’ve got to go out, of course, lest you fall into the rhythm of a fare-weather shredder. And how else are you going to work off all those early evening beers and Sunday roasts?
So you drive around and pay the parking charges, (resentfully, because it’s the dead of winter.) You battle the rips and the ribs and lower your head against the wind and hail biting at your eyelids. Sometimes it’s worth it, for a few wiggles in those milliseconds between fat burger and whomping closeout. Maybe you even find a whackable section crumbling friendly in the howling cross-shores. Then there are times when it feels like you might have been better off staying in bed.
It’s easy, during spells like this, to forget the magic of those rare days at home when it all comes together.
So today, we present an ode to one such session; to help remind you of that feeling of scoring fun waves under sunny skies with just you and a mate.
The session featured went down last winter, with just Adam ‘Bearman’ Griffiths and Alan Stokes on the peak, at a super rare little spot that requires a ridiculous combo of perfect wind, tide, sand and swell to get her going.
Hit play, then full screen, hunker down and hope another day like this is just around the corner.
Video: Sam Buckle (@landroverandhound)
Music: Joe Martin
All photos: @lugarts