Whether you’re a ‘surf whenever there’s waves’ core lord or a landlocked ‘surf when my job/family/petrol money’ allows, you will have some deep-down inherent reasons as to why you surf. But have you ever stopped to think of what your answer would be to that question?
We decided that we wanted to learn more about what motivates the British surfing crew, especially when you factor in our temperamental conditions and often chilly water temps. So we put the question out there to our Instagram community…and as you can see below they did us proud!
Remembering back to my University days and my course on Behavioural Sciences, I recall the fundamentals of motivation in psychology, with one key model being around ‘extrinsic’ and ‘intrinsic’ motivation. Extrinsic motivation arises when you are compelled to do something based on external factors, whereas intrinsic motivation is driven by factors within you as a person.
In broad terms then, some extrinsic reasons why you might surf could be to do with winning a surf contest or getting sponsored.
Intrinsic motivators for surfing would include things such as ‘having a challenge’, ‘fulfilment’ or having a ‘sense of purpose’.
On basis of these, you are probably thinking that it’s more likely we want to surf due to those intrinsic reasons, with only small number of surfers competing or being sponsored. And most academic studies on this topic would tend to agree.
However one extrinsic reason that seems more likely is ‘travel’. This is definitely something that most of us surfers have done or contemplated, whether that’s a short trip to another part of the UK or further afield to sunnier, warmer climes.
In answer to the question “Why do you surf?”, we’ve selected some of the best answers and tried to group them under similar themes.
Only a surfer knows the feeling
The infamous slogan from Billabong seems to ring true for many of you…
andy_ottenbreit – There is nothing better than the feeling of being picked up by the ocean and be carried to the shore by a wave. It’s a feeling that never gets old and I’m addicted to it.
gonzan1 – To be one with Mother Nature and her power!
sophsophs_ – Surfing helps me feel connected to myself, the environment and a wonderful community of like minded people
esbent1337 – It’s fun! Especially in colder places like here, where it’s easier to find a relatively quiet peak. Just getting up to my feet and managing a few turns to keep up with the wave just puts a massive smile on my face. I’ll say it again, because I can’t overstate it enough; I surf because it’s fun!
scharl – Therapy, you forget everything when you surf
ella_gardner – Surfing is a one-of-a-kind activity. One minute you’re losing yourself in the sun, feeling blessed for everything we have, and next you’re dropping into the biggest wave you’ve ever experienced and thinking ‘how on earth did I just manage that?!’ – it’s incredible how much you can feel from just floating on a fibreglass board.
ladysealove – It brings me to the present moment to that kid-like feeling of joy, happiness and play.
moleyisajedi – It’s the only time I feel truly at peace and connected with the ocean.
Memory making
Not only how it makes you feel at the time, but the impression it leaves on you…
jocoumbe – I surf to reconnect after a day at work /school with my kids who are 10, 8 and 7 – and all loads better than me! But we go and sit in the line out together on small days at Fistral and wash the day away together.
annajulietstephens – because many of the most amazing, awe-inspiring and memorable moments of my life have been surfing, whether that’s lying on my board in the middle of the ocean alone and gently flowing with the current, or dropping into a big curving wave whilst my friends shout encouragments from the lineup. because surfing has given my life so much meaning, shaping entire trips I have gone on, sometimes for months. because I’ve found community and friends through surfing, and a deeper connection with nature. because it always allows be to drop into the flow state and no matter what the situation is, it is NEVER a bad idea to go surfing.
Lifesaving
The ones that hit genuinely show the power surfing has…
elyetotropical – I’m 44, the best times of my life, where in surfing! Im cancer survivor 2 times, and return to the sea and surf, was everything.
leo_lopez_f – I realized that the place where I had been happiest in my life had been on the beach and surfing, and I realized that that was what I wanted for the rest of my life, so as soon as I came of age I moved to 1500 kilometers from my home, where I had lived my best days, in summer on the beach, surfing saved my life after traumatic experiences in childhood.
takuku_nishi – I surf because surfing gave me the greatest gift in life and that it the feeling of being alive. If it wasn’t for surfing I would not be here right now. During near death moments or times when I needed every bit to stay alive, the thought of surfing again one day kept me going. I owe it all to surfing.
The Big Wave crew
We heard from some of these big wave legends…
peter_mel – Because it’s necessary for the navigation of life.
andrew_cotty – Makes you feel alive.
instapegleg -I’m more at home in the ocean than I am on land. A deep-down distinctive feeling in my DNA tells me I need to be there.
And the quirky
Naturally when you ask the Internet to answer something, there’s always going to be a few left field responses…
yandinexp – Pubs aren’t 24 hours.
jamescook001 – So I make @samthemanwith themasterplan look good on the water.
steve_veraja – Cause I can’t do the Cha Cha Cha.
hemisphereical – Because I’m a full on masochist.
fredmatiwolf – Cus I’m Alien.
Despite seeming to be a fairly innocuous question, as you can see there are some interesting, beautiful and heart warming responses, which hopefully reflects the general populous of us as surfers.
Here’s the full post with all of your comments in and we would highly you encourage to go and read them all:
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