Welcome to First Light, an original series about the morning rituals surfers go through — and why we’re all getting up at the crack of dawn to chase down any form of surf. This episode focuses on Danny Teare, who had a stroke while surfing. Not letting that get in the way of his love of the ocean, Danny turned to bodysurfing and you can now find him up before the birds, seeking wedges and corners to huck over the lip in to. “Bodysurfing became a part of my recovery,” he said. “I chanced upon it while thinking about how I’d get back in the water. Now, I love it.” Hit play above for Danny’s story as well as his morning ritual. Filmed by Osker Carmichael.
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