Chasing a swell from the deepest depths of Cornwall to the great far north of the UK comes with a whole load of logistics. Especially if it’s your first time venturing into the wilds of Scotland, on the premises of filming a human-led documentary up that way. Young lensman, Osker Carmichael, recently made the trip for his Maiden voyage – as part of a new flick he’s building up with Welsh surfer, Asha Ferguson. Here’s how it went. All images from Osker.
Osker
“The UK’s most northerly coastlines have always been on the map for me. The cold, rugged geology and remoteness is enticing, which made a mid December trip to Thurso one to remember. I’m a Cornwall-based photographer and filmmaker, navigating the industry after graduating more than a year ago, specialising in the deep blue and telling stories about people of the sea. My latest project is a documentary film about Asha Ferguson, a Welsh longboarder and stonemason.”
Your protagonist, Osker’s been putting in the in-water hours for a while now.
Friends
“I first met Asha and her friend Toby Broadhead on a camera swim shooting Porthmeor on a lovely mellow offshore day last March. We chatted in the water and on the beach, which was then followed by many fun sessions in St Ives bay. They had spoken about past surf ventures to Scotland and when they invited me to join on one to Thurso I was all in. With this new project in the works I joined their Celtic crew of friends from Wales, Scotland and Cornwall: Asha, Toby, Sam, Pete, Aidan and Fergal the dog. As a group of social surfers, the aims were to explore remote breaks, share waves and it presented the perfect opportunity for me to shoot part of the documentary with Asha.
“Half of the group had been to Thurso before, so they had scouted and surfed remote reefs, points and beaches following the coast both west and east. Starting off in Hayle, we loaded up the back of Toby’s approaching 30-year-old Mazda B2500 pick-up with the boards and our kit and set off. He was feeling confident in the trusty Mazda, making this its ninth journey to the rugged shores of the far north. Toby and Asha split the driving while I filmed our moments on the road. It was cosy, to say the least, with the three of us plus Fergal, who took any chance to climb up onto our laps. Adding the fact that we were limited to 55 mph, we had to get creative in keeping ourselves entertained.
“We travelled ten hours up to Cumbria for some food and a power nap at Sam’s place, then set off again in the early hours, this time joined by Sam, meaning we could split the crew making more room in the mighty Mazda. Arriving mid-morning in Thurso the air was bitter, but the view alone of the Orkney Islands from Thurso Cove was well worth the 20-hour long journey. The water, a mixture of hearty blues and emerald greens, made you cold just from looking at it.”
True localism.
Getting into the swing of things.
Stunning light on the drive up.
Waves
“The first wave we saw was Thurso East, on full display easily double overhead. It was impressive to see this world-class break in full swing showing off its speed and hefty power. It filled us with excitement and anticipation just from watching from afar. Shortly after our arrival, we made our way over to another bay for the first surf of the trip, we were welcomed by mellow, offshore waves to ease us into the brisk waters. There was a universal feeling of gratification after immersing ourselves in the North Atlantic sea. It felt surreal as we cheered each other onto our eager first waves after such a prolonged cramped journey.
“I was amazed at how much of a variety of waves was on offer, there is something for everyone. Fast, friendly, hollow or slow, you can work with the forecast and coastal array to find something you like the look of. We scored many of the above, while spending most of our time in the water with more seals than humans. A favourite moment was when a curious local took an interest in my water housing and played many rounds of hide and seek in between dodging the oncoming sets. When we weren’t surfing, we stayed in an Airbnb house next to probably one of the most scenic Lidls in the UK, overlooking the archipelago of Orkney. Each night we huddled round the gas fire heater which was covered in our wetsuit boots and gloves as we watched Christmas films, checked forecasts and planned the next day, all while surrounded by highland cow decor.”
Finding a few moments amongst the cold.
Challenges
“The cold was definitely testing at times, with the air temperature having lows of 2°C and the sea averaging around 9°C. It was a painful ritual putting on a horribly cold, soaked wetsuit before the sun had risen, or when going for a second dip of the day. But at the same time it acted as a catalyst, mixed with the excitement of the forecast — it made getting into our wetsuits a high-speed sprint. Daylight was limited, which meant making a plan was necessary in order to make the most of the waves. We picked up a double-dipping routine, getting into the water for first light, just before 9am, and rushing back in before sundown, just after 3pm.”
Dark mornings and low light, but there’s usually something to show for it.
Always worth having another look.
Discoveries
“Each day was met with new discoveries from exploring new locations, and learning how each spot reacted to the day’s swell, wind and tide. I was enjoying figuring out how each break would look, and the question of whether they would be working, or what they needed to get going — even at places where we didn’t jump in the water. It made me appreciate the art of forecasting and how so much of surfing is done in preparation.
“I was surprised at how clear the sea was at most breaks, like glass. You could watch the underwater vortex form as the lip was thrown over, creating a mesmerising display of energy. Even in Thurso Cove at the renowned Sh*tpipe, the water had five-to-eight metres of visibility, which didn’t align with my expectations, given its name. I expected the dawn and dusk light to be in a world of its own and it did not disappoint.
“Bouncing off the Scottish waters, filled me with warmth within the freezing lineups. There was something different about it, soft and fulfilling, motivating you through the wind-chilled surfs. Returning back to Cornwall, the fire inside me to explore and enjoy waves, both old and new, had been ignited and fully stoked for the winter. Scotland is definitely on the cards for a return trip. There is so much more to search and relish. This is just the beginning of my relationship with the remote shores of the far north.”
Friendships are forged on the road north.
Quintessential Scotland.
When the conditions finally play ball, it can make the cruise north a delightful one.
