How green are you? This is a question that has been whirring around my head particularly as the environment and green surfing forms a significant part of this issue of Wavelength.
From a surfer’s point, I’ve come to the conclusion that I’m not very green. Over 30 years of surfing, I’ve never recycled my surfboards or wetsuits, I’ve either worn them till they fall apart or sold them, though doesn’t this count as reusing? Each time I surf, I drive to the beach, often alone in my car, which burns fuel quicker than I can put it in. I ride petro chemical boards. The wax I use is derived from oil and a collection of synthetic materials, and I burn more fossil fuels from driving around desperately looking for that perfect wave. I’ve also taken many surf trips which have involved planes, trains and automobiles all in search of waves.
However, being green to me is more about small steps. I recycle, I don’t litter, I pick up rubbish that I spot on the beach after a surf. And without being over zealous or sanctimonious, in this issue of the magazine we explore elements of what it means to be a green surfer. We’ve an interview with a surfer that has opted out of mainstream living to go off grid and live off the land. We meet the man behind Surfers Against Sewage, who discusses the impact the organisation has had on our coastline and UK professional surfer Gordon Fontaine presents his erudite theories of what green surfing actually means and how we all actually do our bit.